CBD Skincare: Revolutionary Treatment or Just a Trend?

The utilization of CBD (Cannabidiol), in skincare formulation has garnered significant attention in recent years, with many touting it as a potential game-changer in the beauty industry. 

It is a non-psychoactive chemical cannabidiol (CBD) extracted from the cannabis plant and used as a dietary supplement or for medical purposes.

Skincare Researchers claim that CBD possesses anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties that can address various skin concerns, from acne to ageing. Many skincare formulators are even enticed to add CBD into their formulations. 

However, skeptics question whether the hype surrounding CBD-infused skincare products is justified or simply a passing trend.

As the market for CBD skincare continues to expand, consumers are increasingly curious about its efficacy and safety. With an influx of CBD-infused creams, serums, and oils, the debate over whether CBD skincare is a revolution or another marketing ploy remains ongoing. 

This article aims to delve into the science behind CBD in skincare formulation, examining its potential benefits and limitations, and providing insights to help readers navigate the evolving landscape of CBD-infused beauty products.

Science Behind CBD In Skincare Formulation

What Is CBD?

CBD, Cannabidiol,  is a phytocannabinoid identified in 1940. It is a member of 113 cannabinoids found in cannabis plants, alongside tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), and constitutes up to 40% of the plant extract. It is one of the several active chemicals in cannabis. It is non-psychoactive, unlike its cousin, tetrahydrocannabinol (THC). This means CBD does not produce a “high.”

Cannabis is also called hemp and marijuana. The difference between the two stems from a single element: the amount of THC in the plant. “Hemp” refers to cannabis cultivars with 0.3% or less THC concentration by dry weight, whereas “marijuana” refers to cannabis variants with more than 0.3% THC. CBD can be extracted from both plants.

CBD in Skincare Formulation

Cannabidiol (CBD) shows great promise in topical skin care solutions. CBD is a natural, highly efficient anti-inflammatory and emollient. It is supposed to be especially beneficial for customers with sensitive skin, irritation, redness, and dryness. 

• Skincare formulators are aware that adding CBD to a personal care formula has numerous benefits. At the same time, there are several possible risks. CBD might be challenging to work with because of its pungent odour and off-colour. At the same time, formulators must rigorously examine the material for the presence of tetrahydrocannabinol.

• When formulating CBD-infused skincare products or cosmetics, several complex elements come into play. CBD’s stabilization is complicated and being an oil-soluble molecule, it must be properly integrated into a variety of skincare formulations such as creams, lotions, serums, and emulsions. This necessitates an understanding of emulsification techniques, as well as the selection of suitable carriers and base ingredients. In addition, encapsulation technologies such as liposomes and nanoemulsions can be used to increase CBD penetration and bioavailability via the skin.

• Moreover, maintaining the consistency and texture of the end product requires finding a balance between the concentration of CBD oil and other additives. CBD can cause item discolouration, precipitation, or cloudiness, thus preservation is also an important consideration. Including CBD-compatible preservatives and antioxidants, while verifying that they do not interfere with CBD effectiveness can help preserve your product’s look and shelf life. 

• Modern cosmetic formulations primarily use CBD distillate rather than crude oil. CBD distillate has a thick, sticky consistency similar to honey at room temperature. Before usage, it is often heated to around 90°C to aid with transfer and measurement. CBD distillate is easily soluble in most vegetable oils, including medium-chain triglycerides found in coconut and palm oils, olive, grapeseed, almond, avocado, and sunflower oils. It is also compatible with typical emollients such as shea butter,  mango seed butter, and jojoba oil, among others. Also, Cetearyl alcohol can be used to stabilise CBD distillate emulsions, while sodium stearoyl lactylate can be used to increase its viscosity and quantity.

• Many cosmetic formulators additionally add terpene-rich essential oils to CBD distillate, including pinene, myrcene, limonene, linalool, and b-caryophyllene. As previously stated, the actions of these chemicals in combination with THC are not fully understood, but their synergies may be critical to achieving the desired result. That’s why formulators are still studying those chemical combinations and reactivity before they can formulate CBD skincare products. 

• Cosmetic scientists have also discovered that vital fatty acids such as a- and g-linolenic acid, oleic acids, and phytosterols (b-sitosterol) can be combined with CBD distillate to improve skin elasticity and hydration by hindering the enzyme 5-a-reductase, which blocks excessive skin sebum secretion, regardless of the cannabinoids present.

• When understanding the concentration level of CBD, the most typical prescription for CBD concentration in skincare is approximately 1%. Yet necessary studies must be conducted by formulators to evaluate the results of that concentration. 

The most common CBD skincare formulation is oil, however, it is also available as an extract, vaporised liquid, and oil-based pill. Its extracts are typically mixed with hemp seed oil, olive oil, or other carrier oils. 

There is STILL a scarcity of evidence-based studies in humans to completely grasp the potential ways CBD works in skin care formulations. Furthermore, FORMULATORS  are unsure whether using it in conjunction with other skin cosmeceuticals will have detrimental effects. 

So, Is CBD legal in cosmetic formulations?

As is customary, laws surrounding CBD and hemp are continually evolving to maintain the integrity of cosmetic items and safeguard customers. Yet, more research is needed.

How CBD Skincare Works With The Skin?

We must first gain a fundamental understanding of the human endocannabinoid system to comprehend the science behind CBD skincare. The endogenous cannabinoid system, as it is fully named, aids in preserving homeostasis in the body by controlling pain, memory, and other skin’s physiological functions.

CBD skincare studies show that CBD reacts with the skin’s endocannabinoid system (ECS), which is important for preserving the skin’s health when administered externally.

Cannabinoid receptors, found in the skin and other body parts, make up the ECS. It is dispersed by keratinocytes, melanocytes, hair shafts, and sebaceous and sweat glands. Thus, applying CBD cosmetics topically binds to these receptors, impacting the skin’s physiological functions. 

The chemicals synthesised in the endocannabinoid system are represented by the substances anandamide and 2-AG, which bind to receptors CB-1 and CB-2 in various parts of the skin and body.

Not only does the endocannabinoid system stimulate brain regions, but it also contains many receptors in the skin. This is one of the key reasons CBD skincare is so beneficial; it works in harmony with the skin to promote a range of physiological processes that support overall homeostasis.

 CBD is best known in skincare for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. According to CBD skincare studies; Inflammation reduction, promoting proper cell proliferation, and inhibiting overactivity of sebaceous glands are many of the key advantages of CBD’s interaction with skin.

Claimed CBD Skincare Benefits

While CBD skincare studies continue, it is known to contain various characteristics that can benefit skin health and appeal. Here are some of the CBD skincare benefits;

• Anti-Inflammatory Properties:

CBD is renowned for its anti-inflammatory effects, which may benefit people with skin conditions such as acne, rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis. CBD can help soothe itchy and inflamed skin by reducing inflammation. 

• Antioxidant Effects:

CBD has high antioxidant properties, implying it defends the skin from free radicals and environmental pressures such as pollution and UV rays. This antioxidant impact may help prevent premature ageing and keep skin appearing youthful.

• Acne Management:

Based on some research, CBD’s anti-inflammatory qualities and ability to regulate sebum production may aid in acne treatment. CBD may help treat acne-prone skin by lowering inflammation and excess oil. 

• Skin Hydration & Preventing Dryness:

One of the main CBD skincare benefits emphasizes skin hydration. CBD’s moisturising qualities aid in moisture retention and prevent dryness. 

• Calming Effects:

Consumers with sensitive or reactive skin may benefit from CBD’s calming properties.

• Anti-Aging Potential:

CBD may help minimise the indications of ageing, such as wrinkles and line formation, by suppressing free radicals that destroy the elastin and collagen fibres in the skin. 

• Protecting Skin Barrier:

CBD can potentially improve the skin’s natural barrier, which is essential for protecting the skin from unwanted allergens and promoting general skin health.

• Reducing Skin Sensitivity: 

Some people believe that incorporating CBD skincare products into their skincare routine helps to reduce skin sensitivity and redness, making it great for those with easily irritated skin.

It’s crucial to note that, while many people have experienced CBD skincare benefits, individual responses may vary. 

To study more of CBD’s skincare benefits and its role in cosmetic formulation, you can easily enrol on Learn Canyon’s one of the best certified organic skincare formulation courses. 

Benefits Of Compounds Of CBD Oil In Skincare

Most cosmetic formulators do not understand how CBD oil in skincare works on a cellular level. By studying the CBD components’ biological value and interactions formulators can be well aware of how to manage a CBD skincare formulation. 

• Carotenoids

CBD Oil includes carotenoid compounds, specifically β-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. Given their high solubility in the lipid bilayer membrane, these carotenoids act as antioxidants and UV filters. Carotenoids increase skin moisture, enhance regeneration, and encourage fibroblasts to generate collagen and elastin.

• Essential Fatty Acids

α-linoleic acid found in CBD oil is a chemical found in cell and mitochondrial membranes that influences cell transport and signalling via lipid layers. The α-linolenic acid molecules promote the production of anti-inflammatory prostaglandins and leukotrienes. 

α-linoleic acid plays a role in skin barrier function, stratum corneum development and distinction, lamellar body formation, lipoxygenase suppression, cytokine repression,  and immune cell modification. 

• Tocopherols

CBD Oil includes α, β, δ, and γ tocopherols. According to, γ-tocopherol accounts for 85-91% of all tocopherols. It is the primary antioxidant of CBD oil in skincare and is accountable for nearly all of its global antioxidant and anti-ageing properties.

• Terpenes

They are EXTRACTED  and stored in the glandular trichomes alongside cannabinoids. Cannabis has the most potent terpenes, including α-pinene, β-pinene, α-humulene, β-caryophyllene, β-myrcene, limonene, and linalool. Each of these chemicals has a biodynamic impact on skin layers. Thus, cosmetic formulations must be prepared based on their biodynamic effect. 

• Phytosterols

Formulators need to be aware that CBD oil contains phytosterols, which suppress matrix metalloproteinases. 

The matrix metalloproteinase suppresses the COL1A1 and COL1A2 genes, which are important for collagen synthesis. Hence, phytosterols allow greater collagen synthesis and prevent skin ageing.

 Some CBD-infused skincare Products

• Body Oils
• Skin serums
• Moisturizers
• Face oils
• Skin balms
• Eye creams
• Lip Balm
• Gels
• Lotions
• Lip Butter
• Face Mist
• Face Masks 
• CBD cleansers & bath products
• CBD-infused sunscreens and Roll-Ons. 

Potential Side-Effects Of CBD

Topical CBD skincare products such as CBD cream, lotions, serums and oils, do not enter the body as opposed to other CBD products that are consumed through ingestion or inhalation. Because topical CBD cosmetics are applied externally, any negative effects that arise are limited to the area of treatment.

The side effects of CBD topicals will be caused by an allergic reaction to other chemicals in the cream, not the CBD itself. Some of these impacts include:

• Skin irritation
• Itching
• Redness
• Skin Discoloration
• Dry Skin
• Skin blister
• Rash

How CBD is extracted?

CBD is extracted using three major methods: carbon dioxide extraction, steam distillation, and solvent extraction, with extracts derived from the plant’s flowers, foliage, and stalks.

Not every sort of CBD extract is the same. After the CBD is extracted from the hemp plant, processing takes place, resulting in the “type” of CBD extract that is utilised in your skincare product. 

There are three types of extract; 

• Full Spectrum CBD
• Broad Spectrum CBD
• CBD Isolate

Is CBD a Hype Or a Revolution In Skincare? 

A large number of cosmetic firms have included CBD in their product lines. Not simply newer and lesser-known brands. It has permeated mainstream skincare. All big brands are still studying its effectiveness. 

CBD is a powerful antioxidant, outperforming both vitamin C and vitamin E. We know that antioxidants prevent DNA damage caused by UV radiation and pollutants. While this is an excellent skincare advantage, there are currently a variety of antioxidants in skincare that provide the same purpose.

• The Journal of Clinical Investigation determined that it can be used as an anti-inflammatory. In principle, it should benefit those with rosacea, eczema, or acne. However, no studies have been conducted to test CBD for rosacea, eczema, or acne in practice.

• Also, a 2022 study discovered that an external combination of retinol and cannabidiol gave effective outcomes for fine lines/wrinkles while being highly tolerable. Yet again, additional research is needed to determine the exact benefits of CBD skin care.

• A report issued in June 2018 in the Dermatology Online Journal, which Dellavalle coauthored, pointed out that while CBD “has shown some initial promise as a therapy for a variety of skin diseases,” there is a need for large, high-quality, randomised, controlled trials, a sentiment echoed in an article published in December 2020 in Cannabis and Cannabinoid Research. 

• Another research, released in the May-June 2019 issue of Clinics in Dermatology, encourages both physicians and patients to proceed with these products with caution.

Is CBD truly worth the hype? While recent CBD skincare studies show promise, they are not conclusive. While the CBD skincare products and formulations on the market are generally harmless, the entire impact and capabilities of CBD are still unknown.

This does not imply you should avoid all CBD skincare products, but it should inspire you to do your homework before buying and make sure the cosmetics you desire are worthwhile. Reputable companies will be open about the dosages and ingredients in their skincare products so you know what to anticipate. Also, be patient and try the product on a piece of skin before applying it all over for a long period. 

Note: About CBD & THC:  CBD, or cannabidiol, is a substantial component of the cannabis plant, next only to THC. CBD, unlike THC, lacks psychotropic characteristics. This distinction emphasises the legal differentiation and recognition CBD currently possesses. However, it is critical to recognise that CBD is more than just THC’s ‘legal relative’. This chemical has distinct properties that make it useful for holistic health remedies.

• Second, review the test findings. Most respectable CBD skincare products publish lab findings for their CBD extracts, so you know exactly what you’re putting on your skin. Ensure that the hemp plants used to extract CBD were grown without pesticides or other hazardous qualities, as this would contradict the aim of employing medicinal compounds.

• Finally, review instructions and follow them. Like most topical therapies, the skin must absorb the substance and its therapeutic effects, which takes some time. Seek a CBD-infused item, such as a serum, oil, or mask, that can infiltrate the epidermis’ resistant outer layers and induce cellular alterations.

Regulatory Concerns

Any skincare formulator utilising CBD should be conscious of recent regulatory issues and the scarcity of accessible proof for usage in cosmetics. 

Several nations have already modified their national controls to accommodate CBD as a therapeutic product; yet, cosmetic regulations are changing and altering legalities around the world, if you are fascinated by working with CBD, you must thoroughly research the laws that apply to your region to determine the legal status of CBD in skincare in the areas where you plan to market it. 

The FDA in the United States has sent warning letters to CBD-based companies for several years, with the number increasing dramatically in 2019. Most areas which permit the use of CBD oil have constraints that require the oil to contain minimal to no THC, so when purchasing CBD, make sure to acquire certifications of evaluation.

At the moment, investigating cannabis phytochemicals has become difficult due to legal constraints, which is why there is very little evidence of their safety and efficacy. 

Future Market Growth of CBD in Skincare

• The cannabidiol (CBD) skincare market is expected to grow by USD 2.20 billion between 2022 and 2027, with a CAGR of 26.74%. It appears that the cannabidiol boom can expand further.

• According to Market Research Future (MRFR), the “CBD Skincare Products Market Information by Product Type, Category, Distribution Channel and Region – Forecast till 2028” market is expected to grow at a 29.1% CAGR from 2021 to 2028.

Conclusion

From the above article, we understood the science behind CBD in skincare formulation, its mechanism on the skin, the benefits of CBD compounds, and side effects, its extraction and regulatory concerns. 

But the only thing we can conclude here is CBD is still a very new ingredient entered into the beauty industry and more research is going on to understand its composition, and reactivity with ingredients, to validate its efficacy, and safety in the long term and to properly comprehend CBD’s capabilities. 

Whether you want to improve your skin health or discover something to assist your body relax, CBD products may be the answer.

Therefore, working with skincare formulators is the most effective way to learn about CBD and how it can improve your health. 

If you are one of those who are eager to learn more about CBD’s role in cosmetic formulation and to work with CBD, then Learn Canyon has it all. From in-depth practical training to finalising a cosmetic product, we can help you to formulate any skincare product hassle-free. Join our course to become an expert CBD formulator. 

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